Order Up! Thanksgiving with an Expert (Pt. 1)
It is rumored that due to quarantines, travel restrictions and mitigating exposure risk, 35% more people are making their first Thanksgiving dinner this year. I wanted to help - but I confess I am not a Thanksgiving expert. So I called in the big guns. This week my two favorite Thanksgiving maestros will offer some words of wisdom for holiday chefs new and old.
First up, please meet Bill Browning. A phenomenal cook, a natural party planner and relaxed host. Oh and also - he’s my dad.
The glaring caveat to this whole Q&A is that my family, the Brownings, live in London. Thanksgiving is not observed there, obviously, so we throw a massive Thanksgiving party for all of our expat friends (and a few treasured Brits that snuck in under the wire). It is wild. The police often come. Once the table caught on fire. My mom maintains her bedtime will be absolutely no later than 7am. We even had a couple get married who met at the party! It’s very different than most Thanksgivings, but I am confident that if there is a master out there it is Bill Browning and whether you’re cooking for two or 20 you’re about to learn a thing or two.
1. Knowing your Limits and Planning Your Time
What do you buy and what do you home make for Thanksgiving dinner? What do you recommend doing in advance of Thanksgiving Day?
1. Firstly (and I realize this is v boring) it really does help to plan it out and do as much ahead of time as possible. I have cooked TG and/or Christmas Dinner starting from ground zero at 10:00 am on the day, but it really is a hassle. So my view is that dull and pedantic planning is key.
2. In the same vein, making a lot of it ahead is v. helpful and really pretty easy. My plan is to make and freeze dressing (freeze it dry and then add chicken stock on the day), sweet potatoes, and cranberry sauce. All that works perfectly fine frozen. That just leaves cooking the turkey and boiling some beans.
3. Lists are key – the week before write down all ingredients and check off what you have and need to buy. Buy what you can ahead and don’t buy any perishable stuff too far in advance. You kinda need to think through your fridge and freezer space as that can be a problem.
This won’t help first timers, but also having some kinda record, no matter how scribbly, of what you did before, really helps. E.g., just seeing a list of the number of bottles of red wine, white wine, cokes and water and knowing that worked OK last year – bam! – you’re done with that procrastination at the grocery store/wine shop.
4. Stick to the basics – everyone loves them (and if they are away from home they are missing that feel good factor) and your maybe good/maybe bad venison and apple stuffing won’t be all that memorable even if it’s maybe good. It’s a comfort holiday so stick to the tried and true and don’t fall for gnudi with charred brussel sprouts no matter what the picture looks like.
5. Buy pre-prepared what you can. See below in apps.
6. Count out the dishes, silverware, etc. I know this all sounds like overkill, but something will go wrong, not acc to plan, and you don’t want to be ratting around looking for some plastic forks or wine glasses when that happens.
7. Make a chrono schedule that includes EVERYTHING. Like when you thaw stuff (not to be underestimated), whenand how long you heat stuff (and in which order), etc. The skedge will slip but don’t worry – so long as you have a basic order of events you are OK and it never killed anyone to eat an hour later.
2. It's hard to think of starters
What do you serve for starters or appetizers on Thanksgiving? You're caught between a rock and a hard place on apps because it's a celebration so you want to have something nice, but you also have a big meal ahead. Any tips?
Just do 2 and make ‘em easy and feel free to run out (i.e., don’t make too many).
Quick tips: (1) store bought bruschetta rounds smeared with store bought fois gras, topped with a drop of store bought onion relish; (2) sliced rounds of Italian salami or sausage and wedges of Manchego; (3) lightly oiled Santini tomatoes and a bowl of celery salt. It really doesn’t matter and it doesn’t need to be much. But it looks like you made an effort. Offer only 1 thing for cocktails – like champagne/prosecco.
3. Tackling the Turkey
Turkey has a rep for being the thing at the Thanksgiving table that no one really likes but you have to have. How do you cook your turkey? And what are some tips you have for making a good turkey?
I like turkey.
Turkey is really actually v easy and there’s no miracle cure/secret weapon/Aunt Betty’s Guarantee. Google how long to cook it by weight and then follow that exactly. A meat thermometer helps. I think it also helps a lot to cover it in butter/olive/bacon strips so it stays moist, also baste it from time to time – you can also cook it breast side down and turn it over for the last 30 mins, but I’m not sure that is all that revolutionary. I also stick in a lot of celery, apples, onions, carrots, dried apricots, a few bay leaves in the bottom of the pan for grins. The cooked bird stays hot for a long time, so plan it to finish like an hour before so it gives you time to heat the other stuff in the oven. (Make sure you have taken out whatever is in the fridge so it warms to room temperature – it’s much easier/quicker to heat if it’s not really cold.)
Also – I’m convinced the Normal Rockwell Bird Carving at the Table is a myth. Slice that baby up in the kitchen and bang it on the buffet. On that same note – you can cook a boned turkey breast and be done with it. It cooks quicker and slices better and it very easy. Again google the direction – you can overcook it pretty easily. Prob a full bird is technically better, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
The gravy is a hassle, but just go for it and have some white wine, chicken stock and store bought gravy thickener at the ready. Don’t go all homemade here – go simple. Deglaze the pan using the wine, cook off the alcohol, add the stock, and stir in the granules. Add S&P. If you get the least pre-flavoured gravy granules (i.e., not Cajun) then the turkey juice, wine, vegetables and chicken stock will power it through. If it still needs some taste add a (very) few drops of Worcestershire Sauce. People only really baulk at undercooked floury gravy, otherwise you’ll get a lot of compliments on your very average gravy. It’s amazing frankly. Make what looks like 2 or 3 times too much. People like average gravy and it’s sort of uncommon/exotic these days.
4. Let's Talk Cranberries
You both have amazing cranberry recipes, but lately the cranberries in a can have made a resurgence as a cult favorite. What makes your cranberries special?
Nothing. Do both. My sister really likes the kind where you can see the ridges of the can on the side of it. Slicing it up in rounds reminds everyone of their grandmother. And it’s store bought. I would shy away from purchased $13.99 jar of gourmet/artisanal here – go full Oceanspray (or go homemade which is extremely easy).
5. Dry Dressing
What are your tips for making sure your dressing neither comes out dry nor a sticky, gummy mess?
The power of prayer. Basically go slow and try like hell to remember what it was like last time. Err on the side of dry bc you can always add more stock while it is cooking if you lose your nerve. And can’t really un-glom it. And the gravy covers a multitude of sins if it’s dry or gummy.
6. Pies, pies, pies!
You both serve pies for dessert. Which pies are a "do not miss" for Thanksgiving dessert?
Pumpkin. I’m not keen on meringue pies or pecan pie, so we also have a tried and true baked chocolate pie. Serve a small piece of both – don’t ask who wants what. Obvi do those the day before.
7. The Perks of Quirks
Do you do anything totally different from anyone else at your Thanksgiving? What is a family tradition you treasure?
I dress up as a turkey. Really. And we play the Hat Game afterwards. Even doubters succumb to its charms. In the alternative, Ina has a friend who annually dresses up as a Pilgrim, breeches, buckles and all.
8. Life Changing Leftovers
Thanksgiving leftovers are often more beloved than the meal itself. Describe your ultimate leftovers sandwich.
The basic meal -- turkey, dressing and cranberries + mayonnaise. On toasted white bread. Like I said, this whole thing is about memories, real or made up.
9. Dress to impress
What will you and your table wear this Thanksgiving?
Hard to beat this for impact.
Pull out all the fancy stuff – you can have a barbeque when the weather gets better.
Stick your flowers in a pumpkin
Oh and if you must
10. Any last words?
More people are tackling Thanksgiving dinner for the first time this year than ever before (35% of people!) As a seasoned Thanksgiving vet and feast hosting expert - do you have any last tips for a first timer?
Ask a stranger for dinner: it’s kind, interesting, and for the most part keeps everyone in check.
Your event will be fine, fun and heart warming, no matter what. If the dog eats the turkey, or you get mixed up and fix everything on the wrong day, or you blow it all off and make tacos instead, you will always have a story about YOUR First Thanksgiving. (I also think the Indie Movie Thanksgiving From Hell where after a shouting match you find out your father is really your brother is also a myth – it’s just a really fun day.)
Thanks Dad for your tips. As some readers know (and others will learn) our Thanksgiving party is famous and the hottest ticket in town among Brits and Americans alike. While this year looks a little different, I am hoping that reading this will inject a little “Browning” here, there and everywhere.
Email me for rules to the Hat Game.